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February 19, 2016 by Kat

Don’t do this with your iPhone (Another Backup Lesson)

The week ended well with my iPhone, some nice art created and a wonderful reception for my #30edits exhibition. 

  
The week didn’t start well, however. 

On Monday, I had the day off work. I was home, listening to roofers bang above my head all day (no more leaky roof!) and keeping my anxious dog from freaking out. I decided it was time to update my phone to iOS 9.2.1 because the nag-o-grams had been driving me crazy.

I backed up the phone in iTunes and then started the update. Nothing went right from there. My phone suddenly became a useless brick. It took an hour-long call to Apple (using Skype on my iPad… Because hey, no working phone), and an hour-long visit to the local Apple/Mac dealer to do whatever magic full reset they have, and I finally had a phone again. But it was a brand new phone at that point, no data left on it.

But that’s ok… I had a fresh backup, right? No big deal, restore the backup and I’m good to go. 

Except the backup wouldn’t restore. At all. I tried again and again. I was starting to worry. Not so much about my settings or apps. Or even photos: Those all transfer automatically to Dropbox. I realized the one most important thing I have on my phone… The one thing that’s not backed up anywhere other than my iTunes backup… Are my Contacts. 

So many contacts! Friends phones and addresses. Business contacts. My doctors office. Email addresses. Years in the making and collecting, this list. I don’t even know my son’s phone number by heart! I would be lost. Regenerating that contact list would take weeks, months, maybe years. 

Another hour on the phone with Apple (thank you AppleCare+) and we finally got the backup to restore. It was not looking good for a while there. But you know what I learned on the phone with support? There is a simple fix for to ensure your contacts are not lost: All you need to do is back up your contacts to iCloud. 

I don’t use iCloud for much, it’s not my favorite cloud service by far, and I had most everything turned off. But now I have contacts turned on and backed up to iCloud:

  
I encourage you to do this too, right now. Just go to the Settings app > iCloud and then toggle Contacts to on as shown above. You are set. 

I came out of this ok but it was 24 hours of worry. If the worst had happened and my iTunes backup was too corrupted to restore, I could have used a third party backup extractor to get my Contacts out. I could have restored from an earlier backup. But it would have been more work and hassle than I had time for. I had spent enough time on the update as it was.

Learn from my experience, get those contacts backed up! 

Our phones, in addition to being the most awesome art-making device ever, really do store our lives. Consider what you would be lost without, and get it double backed up.

Filed Under: Mobile Tutorial, The Kat Eye View of the World Tagged With: backup, iPhone, restore

February 12, 2016 by Kat

Masking in Stackables (Mobile Tutorial)

With my recent #30edits challenge, I pushed into new territory, deeply exploring the features and effects in my go-to apps. One of my favorite discoveries is the masking feature in Stackables. Today I’m going to explain how I used this feature to create a recent piece, Gatekeeper.

Kat Sloma iPhone Photography Tree Sky Night

If you haven’t used the Stackables app before, you can get the basic instructions in this earlier blog post. I’ve also posted many Stackables Formulas in the past, which allow you to use the same layers and settings I used to create an artistic effect. Take a look at those posts for more background. Today we are going to specifically dive in on masking.

Starting with this lovely Oregon winter tree photograph, I’m going to experiment in Stackables.

Photo Feb 08, 5 15 31 AM

First, I added a few layers in Stackables, transforming the color and adding texture. When I have a few layers, it’s time to play with masking, by tapping the Mask icon. (Note: I’m sharing iPad screen shots because there is a little more room on the screen to explain the options. All of the features are available on the iPhone as well.)

mask-Image-1

This opens a whole new menu of options! There are different mask menu options on the top of the screen, masks to choose from the menu on the right, placement options in the lower right corner and extent/opacity selection in the lower left corner.

In this menu, I can choose a mask for the selected layer by tapping on one of the options in the menu on the right. The way the mask works, the black pixels block the selected layer from showing through. You can see that in the image; the green/yellow gradient layer is blocked by the mask. To allow more or less of the layer to show, you use the opacity and extent sliders.

Mask-Image-2

You can also adjust the placement location, angle of rotation and size of the mask by using two fingers on the image and moving the mask around. Alternatively, you can use the preset positioning options in the lower corner. If you are going to mask multiple layers, I recommend you use the presets so all of the masks line up. I’ve opted for the default position in the center.

Now I want to fill that masked area with a contrasting layer/color. I go back to my Layers menu and add another texture layer, then come back to the Mask menu to mask it. I choose the same Mask option, and then invert the mask using the toggle in the upper left corner. This gives me the exact opposite in terms of mask – the new layer shows in that center area, but is masked around the edge. Since I used the preset positioning, the two masks line up perfectly.

Mask-Image-3

An easy way to add another layer with an exactly inverted mask is to duplicate the original masked layer, and then invert the mask. From there, you can go to the Layers menu and choose a new texture/gradient/etc. for the new layer. You can continue to add or duplicate multiple layers with and without masks, but in this case I’m going to save the image from Stackables for the next step in the edit.

Photo Feb 08, 5 15 30 AM

The “window” in the sky looks kind of empty, doesn’t it? It needs something. I use Alien Sky to add a moon and subtle stars.

Photo Feb 08, 5 15 29 AM

But now I have stars in the outer frame, where I don’t want them. I resolve this by blending the output from Stackables with the output from Alien Sky in Image Blender. I use the mask function in Image Blender to mask the stars in the outer frame, and here you go, the final result:

Kat Sloma iPhone Photography Tree Sky Night

If you want to learn more about Image Blender masking and the many other functions in that app, it’s covered in-depth in my book, Art with an iPhone: A Photographer’s Guide to Creating Altered Realities.

The last step is, of course, naming the image. Sometimes a name comes to me along the way, and other times I have to explore options. The first name that came to me was “Portal” but that seemed too obvious. I looked at it for a while longer and realized the trees were almost like guardians, and so “Gatekeeper” came along. That was it!

This image is definitely a recent fav and was a direct result of my #30edits exploration. I love learning something new. I hope you do too!

Filed Under: Mobile Tutorial, The Kat Eye View of the World Tagged With: Image Blender app, mask, masking, mobile tutorial, Stackables app

December 20, 2015 by Kat

Mandala Coloring Page for Download (and learn how to create your own)

As my #30edits project continues, I’m getting more experimental! Last week I was inspired to create a tree mandala as a coloring page, since adult coloring books are all the rage these days.

Free Mandala Coloring Page Kat Sloma iPhone Photography

I created the mandala first and then colored it with an app called Art Set, which allows you to color and paint digitally on a photograph. I am making the blank version available for you to download here. You can either print and color on paper, or import into a coloring app like Art Set or Procreate to color digitally. Either way it’s good fun!

Free Mandala Coloring Page Kat Sloma iPhone Photography

It is actually very easy to create these mandalas in just a few steps from a photograph. If you want to try it, pick a simple, graphic image — something with good lines and edges. Then, follow these steps:

1. Create a high contrast black and white image of your photograph. Snapseed is a great place to start, using the Black and White filter. You might need to run it through the Black and White filter more than once to get the strong black/white contrast you need for this process.

Kat-Sloma-Photography-6850

2. Create a line drawing from your photograph, using an app like Sketch Me or a drawing effect in iColorama. You want to pick up the edges of your shape, keeping the center open so there is space to color. Experiment with settings until you get something like this:

Kat-Sloma-Photography-6881

3. Use a kaleidoscope effect to reflect the image in slices around a central point, which creates the mandala. I used the Kaleidoscope effect in XnView Photo FX to create this one:

Kat-Sloma-Photography-6884

Easier than you thought, huh? Have fun coloring!

Filed Under: Mobile Tutorial, The Kat Eye View of the World Tagged With: #30edits, coloring page, mandala, mobile tutorial

December 8, 2015 by Kat

Cleaning and Cutting for Compositing Images, Part 2 (Mobile Tutorial)

Happy Tuesday! It’s time to finish off the tutorial I started last week.

But first, a quick check in on the #30edits project. There have been some challenging moments, but I’ve pushed past them and it’s going well. Here is #9, called “Merge/Emerge”. You can see what I’ve been creating on Instagram, and join in any time!

IMG_6726-0.jpg

Now, it’s time to get into part two of the tutorial, the “cutting” part. I need to get that cactus in there! To see how I merged the mountains and clouds into one image, go to part one here.

Kat-Sloma-Photography-6582

The “cutting” process is done in the same app I used for cleaning, Handy Photo, using the “Move Me” function. I start with a terrible photo, taken from the window of the car. I was taking random photos out the window as we sped by the desert at 65mph, hoping to get at least one good, recognizable cactus silhouette to use.

2015-11-28-11.26.07

Yay! Out of about thirty images, I had one that worked. The first step in cutting my cactus out is to convert the image to black and white. Since I want the cactus to be a silhouette against the sunset, it won’t do to have it green. I use Snapseed’s Black and White conversion, increasing the contrast to get the cactus as black as possible.

2015-11-28-11.26

Now I am ready to cut! I load the black and white version into Handy Photo, and select the Move Me menu.

2015-12-02 01

In the Move Me menu, there are four options: Lasso, Brush, Eraser, and Import. The Lasso, Brush and Eraser work the same as in Retouch from Part 1. Import allows you to import a previous “cut” item and place it in this picture. After I cut out my cactus and save it, I could import it here.

2015-12-02 02

But first, I need to cut out the cactus. If the item I want has a strong contrast with the background, as I do here, using the Lasso is the easiest way to cut it out. I select Lasso, then draw around the item I want to cut. If my start and end lines don’t match up, that’s ok – Handy Photo will draw a line between them to close the shape. When my shape is filled in, I choose the “Fit to Edge” function (3) in the pop up menu that appears on the right of the screen.

2015-12-02 03

“Fit to Edge” is an awesome feature, which gets software to do my detailed work for me! It finds the edge of whatever you highlighted, assuming you have good contrast between the object and background.

2015-12-02 04

You can see it’s not perfect, so now I use the Brush and Eraser to finish up the fine details. One thing I want to make sure to erase are the highlights on the left edge of the cactus. Those will look weird since I want the cactus shape to be a silhouette. I select Eraser, use it on the photo (a zoom window will pop up, to show me where I am working), and do the detail work. If I need to, I can switch back to Brush and fill spaces in.

2015-12-02 06

Once the shape is highlighted, there are two options for moving it. “Cut” takes the shape and does a content-aware fill on the background, so I can move the shape within the same image. “Copy” duplicates the shape so I can add more of the shape to the same image. For my purposes, either will work. I usually use the “Cut” option so I can see the detail better as I move the shape.

Once I’ve cut the shape, I can edit and move it. The editing options are shown on the bottom left menu: Transform (rotate/flip), Opacity, Saturation and Edge Smoothness. Edge smoothness is nice, because it can help you soften jagged edges from imperfect brushwork so the shape blends into a background better. It can also look weird if it’s done in the extreme, so experimentation is required.

2015-12-02 07

Once I’ve edited the shape, I use the right menu bar to move it. The options are to move to a New Layer, move to a New Picture, or Export as PNG. For more control of the blending process, use Export as PNG and blend in Image Blender. Expore as PNG will save a file that has the shape only (no background pixels) to your Camera Roll. Here’s the shape PNG alone:

2015-12-02 06.45.40

While I move on to the next part of the process, I keep Handy Photo opened in the background. If I discover that something is wonky with the shape I cut, I can return to Handy Photo, use “Undo”, and make adjustments to the shape without starting the process from the beginning. As long as you have not exited the Move Me menu, Handy Photo retains the history. That is nice!

Now I’m ready to add the cactus to the sunset image! In Image Blender, I load the composite sunset image as the bottom layer, the PNG as the top layer and then I blend using either Darken or Multiply at 100% to ensure the tones of the cut image match the tones of the background. Because it is a PNG which has a transparent background, the only pixels that are blending are the cactus. Nice!

2015-12-02 06.49.36

Save this blended image, and I’m done. I now have my sunset silhouette for further processing. To finish the processing, I imported the composite image into the Circular app and experimented from there. I had to come back to my elements multiple times, adjusting the composition so the cactus was in the right place.

As a reminder, here’s the final image:

Desert Sunset Cactus Kat Sloma iPhone Photography

A Thousand Desert Sunsets

With Cleaning and Cutting, you have great tools to combine elements from multiple photos to create composite images. If something in your composition is not quite right, consider what you can do with Cleaning or Cutting to improve it. It’s a fantastic tool to make your photography-based art that much better.

If you are uncomfortable with this idea, remember this: You are creating art. Photographs are raw material, and you can do whatever you want with the images you create.

Have fun!

Filed Under: Mobile Tutorial, The Kat Eye View of the World Tagged With: app tutorial, Circular, Handy Photo, Image Blender, iphone photography tutorial, mobile tutorial

December 4, 2015 by Kat

Join me for the #30edits challenge (plus a new Stackables formula)

December is usually a slow creative time for me. Too much to do, too little light, not many photographs. Instead of dropping into a creative funk this year, I’m giving myself a challenge. I’m going to edit the same photo, 30 different ways.

Winter Fog Lake Tree Kat Sloma iPhone Photography  #30edits

At the Edge, edit #5 of 30

Care to join me? Pick a photo, and start editing. Post using #30edits on Instagram. There are no additional requirements, no time limits, no awards for finishing except the creative boost you might receive.

Winter Tree Orange Brown Kat Sloma iPhone Photography  #30edits

Life Force, edit #4 of 30

It’s already got my creative juices flowing. Ideas are popping on to my head to try during the day. So many options! So hard to choose what to do! What a fun problem to have.

Winter Tree Sky Blue Purple Kat Sloma iPhone Photography  #30edits

Blueberry Sky, edit #3 of 30

To get you started, how about a new Stackables formula? This one is called Blueberry Sky.

To download the “Blueberry Sky” formula for your own use, do the following:
1. Make sure the Stackables app is installed on your iOS device.
2. On your iOS device, download the formula file from this link. (This is a Dropbox link, and you may be prompted to save the file to your Dropbox account, if you have one. Go ahead and save it to your Dropbox and then download from there.)
3. When you go to download or open the file on your device, use “Open in…” and choose the “Open in Stackables” option.
4. Stackables will open and ask if you want to import the formula, tap “Import.”
5. To use the formula, load a photo, go to Formulas (1), choose Favorite Formulas (2). You will see the imported formula (3), so tap to preview. Click the wrench icon (4) to apply the formula and make changes to the layers.

2015-12-04 05

Join me in the #30edits fun!

PS – If you are anxiously awaiting Part 2 of the Cleaning and Cutting for Compositing Images tutorial, it will post next week!

Filed Under: Mobile Tutorial, The Kat Eye View of the World Tagged With: #30edits, iPhone Photography, iphone photography tutorial, mobile tutorial, Stackables app, stackables formula, tree

December 1, 2015 by Kat

Cleaning and Cutting for Compositing Images, Part 1 (Mobile Tutorial)

I’m back after a fantastic Thanksgiving weekend with my family in Arizona. Oh, was it lovely! Warm sun during the day, chilly evenings by the firepit, hanging out with my family through it all. And a few gorgeous desert sunsets!

Desert Sunset Cactus Kat Sloma iPhone Photography

A Thousand Desert Sunsets

I created this piece yesterday morning after returning home, as a remembrance and celebration of my time there. You can tell I’m still enjoying the Circular+ app! I thought it would be great to use the photo I processed in the Circular app, below, as a tutorial on cleaning and cutting for compositing images using the Handy Photo app. This image is actually three different images, blended together. (Don’t look too closely – that cactus is growing out of the roof of a building!)

Kat-Sloma-Photography-6582

Today I’m going to share the “Cleaning” part of the edit, and later this week I’ll share the “Cutting” part. For both functions I use the Handy Photo app, because it allows great control of the processes as well as good “undo” features when things don’t work right the first time. Android users rejoice – this app is available to you too!!

Cleaning

What I consider “cleaning” is basically removing distractions I couldn’t compose my way out of at the time of capture. I do this on images before I start with artistic processing.

There are two common ways to remove distractions: Cloning, and content-aware fill. While Handy Photo does both, today we are going to focus on the content-aware fill, which is called “Retouch” in the app. In other apps, like Snapseed, it is sometimes called “Healing.”

Here is my starting image, which I want for the silhouette of the mountains. I need to remove the faint, but identifiable, antenna tower in the silhouette.

Kat-Sloma-Photography-3967

First, open the Handy Photo app and load an image from the camera roll, called “Gallery” in this app. Next, you need to open the Retouch menu. To get to the main menu, tap the hand icon in the upper right corner of the screen, and then tap the Retouch menu. There are many more menu options than you can see on the screen. In this app, to navigate you rotate the menu “ring” to see additional menus.

2015-12-01 01

Now that you are in the Retouch menu, you get ready to start by zooming in to the location you want to clean. Do this by using two fingers on the screen. Spread your fingers to increase magnification (zoom in), pinch your fingers to reduce magnification (zoom out), and move two fingers together to pan the image around the screen. You can also double tap on the image to quickly increase magnification to 100%, or decrease magnification to fit the screen.

You have three options in the Retouch menu, which is found in the bottom left corner of the screen. You have a Lasso, Brush and Eraser. For this edit, and most of the time I use Retouch, I choose the Brush to highlight where I want to retouch. (I’ll show you the Lasso in Part 2.)

2015-12-01 02

Once you’ve selected the Brush, a control menu pops out from the right side of the screen. To adjust the size of the brush, tap on the Brush Size control, then slide your finger on the screen, left to reduce the brush size and right to increase the brush size. The brush size is independent of the image size. If you need a finer brush than the app will allow you to set, then zoom in further on your image.

2015-12-01 03

Now that we have everything set, we are ready to Retouch. Using your finger, paint the area you want to Retouch. It will be highlighted red on the screen. If you have an intricate shape you are trying to brush, you can use the Snap to Edge feature. (I’ll show you that in Part 2 as well.) In general, you don’t have to worry about getting exact edges with Retouch. As you can see, I’ve roughly highlighted the antenna and the area around it.

2015-12-01 04

Tap the screen to start the Retouch, and suddenly the antenna disappears! What the app has done is a content-aware fill, where it takes at the pixels around the highlighted area and uses those to fill in. In this case, it worked the first time. In other cases, you might see weird pixels filling in, like pixels from the mountain being added to the sky. If that happens, use “Undo” to go back and start over, brushing a smaller area at a time, starting away from the unwanted pixels.

2015-12-01 05

You can continue “cleaning” by retouching multiple areas within a single session. While you are in the same session, you can keep using Undo and Redo. When you are done and like the result, tap Commit in the lower right corner. Once you Commit, you can no longer use Undo and Redo. After Commit, be sure to save your image to your Camera Roll so you have it in this state for additional processing. To save, look for the disk icon on the Main Menu.

In this case, I also wanted to crop to eliminate the clouds and make the mountain silhouette more prominent. Here is the final “cleaned” image:

Kat-Sloma-Photography-6563-2

Compositing

The next step in the compositing process is to combine two images together. I want the clouds from this image of the same sunset, captured using the Vivid HDR mode in ProCamera, behind the mountains from my cleaned image:

Kat-Sloma-Photography-3990

How to do that? Blend using Image Blender. Start with the mountain silhouette as the bottom image and the cloud image as the top image.

2015-12-01 06

In the Arrange function, I move the clouds relative to the mountains using two fingers to pan and zoom, and then tap Save. How do I know where I want the clouds relative to the mountains? I don’t know, when I am starting. I try a composition, save it, then experiment in the next app to see what happens. Sometimes I get it right the first try, but other times I don’t. I decided the clouds should be behind the mountains after experimenting with several versions in Circular.

2015-12-01 07

Now use the Mask function, to mask the mountains and the bottom portion of the image. Using the Brush, you paint on the image to erase the top image where you don’t want it to blend with the bottom. Depending on your images and blend mode, you may need to get to be precise with your mask. You can use two fingers to zoom and pan for precise work. In this case, I don’t have to be precise except in the area the clouds overlap. As long as my mountains are masked and the clouds are not masked, the blend should look fine.

2015-12-01 08

You can also erase the mask if you overshot in an area. To switch from Brush to Erase mode, tap the pencil icon. When the eraser is up, it’s in Erase mode. When the tip is up, it’s in Brush mode. When you like the mask, tap Save. With both the Mask and Arrange functions, if you want to change something, you can always go back into those menus and make adjustments.

Finally, it’s time to blend! For this image, either Darken or Multiply modes will work well. I used Darken, with opacity at 100%. The top image is blended everywhere I haven’t masked, so the sky and clouds appear behind the mountain silhouettes, as they would in real life.

2015-12-01 09

Here’s the final composite image I created, after blending:

Kat-Sloma-Photography-6578

Cool huh? Later this week in Part 2, I’ll show you how I got that cactus in there!

Do you want to learn more about iPhone photography and editing? There is much more in my book! Head over to Amazon to preorder: Art with an iPhone: A Photographer’s Guide to Creating Altered Realities. Only a month and a half until it ships!

Filed Under: Mobile Tutorial, The Kat Eye View of the World Tagged With: app tutorial, Circular, Handy Photo, Image Blender, iphone photography tutorial, mobile tutorial

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