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March 8, 2011 by Kat

The Truth about Carnevale

Carnevale in Venice sounds magical, doesn’t it? The pageantry, the history, the color in an amazing setting. That’s what comes through in the images, isn’t it?

Here’s the truth about Carnevale in Venice…

It’s all a big show for tourists and photographers. I have never seen so many big lenses in one place. Near Piazza San Marco, where the best costumes were found, it was like Disneyland. Disneyland in peak season with no crowd control. Instead of parents pushing and shoving to get photographs of kids with characters, it’s big lens photographers pushing and shoving to get the best angle on the mask. Those in the masks, the seriously gorgeously costumed people, worked it for all it was worth and even had business cards to give to those with the biggest of the big lenses.

Here’s a quick glimpse at the image those photographers were trying to get. There is probably a much better composition on this, I just didn’t feel like pushing and shoving my way in to get it.

This is not my kind of photography, not my Venice.

I am forced to admit, Venice is a place that pretty much exists for tourists any more. It is a gorgeous, fascinating place with such a rich history. In some ways it is sad that it has been reduced to this to survive. In some ways I am glad, because otherwise this wonderful place would just be allowed to sink into the lagoon.

Carnevale is part of Venice’s amazing history, maybe one of the biggest draws by the number of masks you see for sale in shops and crowds on this one day alone. It is incredible to see the costumes. I am glad we went, and I’m glad it was for only one day. I’m glad Carnevale was not my only experience with Venice, there is so much more to it than masks. I have more very cool images to share in coming days, but even as I share them I want you to know the truth behind them. It’s not as magical as it seems.

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Filed Under: The Kat Eye View of the World Tagged With: Carnevale, Italy, mask, orange, photo essay, Venice

Comments

  1. Daogreer Earth Works says

    March 8, 2011 at 7:19 am

    I love this series of shots, and the story too!

  2. Lillianna says

    March 8, 2011 at 7:45 am

    I have Venice in my dreams…someday I 'll go there and photograph….but your story of Venice doesn´t sounds like a dream…

    /Lillianna

  3. christine says

    March 8, 2011 at 7:45 am

    I knew this about Venice and I agree it is sad. You have to go outside tourist season to have it quiet at all otherwise you fight to get around anywhere….not very fun.

  4. jo©o says

    March 8, 2011 at 8:53 am

    Love your wry take on the situation.
    Great perspective on society as a whole these days: all for show, while reality is fast becoming 'virtual'.
    Just a thought: I presume you know what 'cat's eyes' are in the uk? A wonderfully simple and satisfying invention. Small reflectors set in the middle of roads to light your way after dark without the need for street and roadside lights.

  5. The Avery House says

    March 8, 2011 at 11:30 am

    Beauiful photos! The colors are amazing.

  6. Clare B says

    March 8, 2011 at 11:57 am

    Interesting reflections on Carnival – I was talking to my partner about Venice Carnival while were were in Cologne last weekend and wondering what the difference was. Apparently quite a lot and also not much at all – Cologne seems to be for binge-drinking and Venice binge-phototaking. Still, I'm looking forward to seeing your photos.

  7. justine says

    March 8, 2011 at 12:09 pm

    wonderful shots here, we went to Venice and I absolutely loved it even though as you say, it's more for the tourists now.

  8. Jill Samter Photography says

    March 8, 2011 at 12:17 pm

    gorgeous shots!

  9. Veronika says

    March 8, 2011 at 12:32 pm

    I absolutely love the first photo, amazing shot.
    I've not been to Venice yet but most of my friends who have been seem to have mixed feelings about it – they love the place but are overwhelmed by its heavy reliance on tourism. Still, I'm going to plan my trip to Venice one day, got to see it for myself 🙂

  10. Sheri says

    March 8, 2011 at 1:21 pm

    What an interesting post. I'd still like to go, but to be honest,I don't think I have ever once associated Carnevale with Venice. (I must live in a cave or the middle of Oklahoma or something)

    That orange is fabulous!

  11. Anika says

    March 8, 2011 at 2:08 pm

    It does look quite beautiful through the photos though…Something to see right?

  12. Pat says

    March 8, 2011 at 2:24 pm

    Your narrative tells a rather sad story but your photos are beautiful!

  13. lisa says

    March 8, 2011 at 2:44 pm

    This really is sad Kat, and I truly had no idea. Just recently I'd begun seeing so many photos flooding both blogs and FLickr, and I was so enjoying seeing them, wishing I were there. This tells a very different story than what I'd imagined.

    Thank you so much for sharing this at The Creative Exchange.

    Have a wonderful rest of the day.

  14. Anna says

    March 8, 2011 at 2:54 pm

    Thanks for sharing the other side of the Venice coin. Lovely photos! Venice is on my "To Visit" list.

  15. Ocean Soul says

    March 8, 2011 at 3:31 pm

    But I do love the way you got her face in the mirror!

  16. Rosie says

    March 8, 2011 at 6:01 pm

    Wonderful shots, Kat, though really a pity to see all that hustle!

  17. gina says

    March 8, 2011 at 6:13 pm

    Oh, this is sad to hear. Everything becomes so commercial these days. I love the photo of the photographers.

  18. ChantaleP says

    March 8, 2011 at 6:54 pm

    Wow, that's crazy. Love the honest post and I have to say.. the photo is terrific!

  19. Julie says

    March 8, 2011 at 6:56 pm

    Great post and gorgeous photos.

  20. Jamie says

    March 8, 2011 at 10:49 pm

    It looks beautiful (if a bit overwhelming.) I did carnival in Rio one year – what an amazing experience – but one I don't have any desire to experience again.

  21. julie says

    March 8, 2011 at 11:04 pm

    Gorgeous captures!!

  22. Creatissimo says

    March 8, 2011 at 11:07 pm

    I love Venetian Carnival! I've been there a couple of times and loved it, although yes, it was crowdy. But I was prepared and was not bothered… I didn't have problems to photograph the masks as I noticed that some masks saw me that I was patiently waiting, so they would wait for 'my turn'.
    There are two main reasons why I like this Carnival: 1.there's not much noise (in Slovenia, we have a very noisy Carnival) and 2.the masks are perfectly made from the head to the toes. I saw some other Carnivals where masks were so/so made or not perfect.
    I also learned a lot about this Carnival while studying for my final diploma about masks (at University) and they have a very interesting history, which is for me far moree important than the crowds :).
    Anyway, I'm glad you could make some shots and am looking forward to see them…

  23. Barbara says

    March 9, 2011 at 12:00 am

    I would love to visit Venice, a shame that it's become so commercialised though. Love your images here.

  24. maureen says

    March 9, 2011 at 2:47 am

    Well, I'd say that is one great shot you captured. I had a wonderful time in Venice, it is so beautiful, I could walk and walk and walk there. I am like you, I'd rather be there without the crowds.

  25. the spirit that moves me says

    March 9, 2011 at 3:06 am

    Interesting piece, and the "mask" is a great metaphor. Your photos are amazing, and certainly pulled me in. It definitely looks magical from my living room.

  26. Carola Bartz says

    March 9, 2011 at 3:19 am

    Your shots are gorgeous, Kat. Great capture.
    Although I come from a country with a carneval tradition I have never been a big fan of carneval. However, it is interesting to see how differently it is celebrated even in the same country – the famous carneval in Cologne or Mainz is completely different from the heavily traditional culture of carneval in the Southwest of Germany (and I prefer the "Fasnacht" in the Southwest). Interesting post, Kat.

  27. Kerri says

    March 9, 2011 at 5:47 am

    thanks for unveiling the truth! 😉
    your photo of all the photographers is GREAT!!

  28. Erika B says

    March 9, 2011 at 7:01 am

    Love your colorful first shot in this post. I have been to Venice but I must admit I was seriously disappointed. Didn't live up to my expectations at all. Always too bad when you get that feeling.

    Erika B

  29. angelcel says

    March 9, 2011 at 11:36 am

    Oh no! Well reading this has been like browsing in a 'Rough Guide' travel guide because it is the plain, unvarnished truth. I'm not into crowds and could have guessed that it would be busy but if it's a case of jostling? Hmm..maybe not. Not at this time of year at least.

    I love your photos. The last one is my favourite but I also very much like seeing the 'behind the scenes' glimpse in the second.

  30. Serline says

    March 9, 2011 at 12:09 pm

    Gorgeous! I'd love to visit that place too:)

  31. LisaF says

    March 9, 2011 at 6:43 pm

    The mask photos are amazing, but I think I would prefer your Venice any day!

  32. Kevin says

    March 9, 2011 at 9:18 pm

    Good story and awesome pictures. You're so lucky to have the opportunity. I really like the angle of the photographer watching the photographers. I'd love love to be able to do a set of images concentrating on the "paps" rather than the "celebs".

  33. jennifée says

    March 9, 2011 at 10:38 pm

    Thank you for sharing this behind-the-scenes look. I didn't know it was like that, but I have to say I'm not surprised, given what I've seen of Venice before.

    When I was there (in November one year), part of the fascination for me was exactly that interplay between "authentic" and "tourist" Venice. I'll never forget the extreme contrasts – music and laughter from the tourists enjoying themselves in certain restaurants on certain squares, just a stone's throw away from narrow canals bordered by run-down and dark deserted buildings. An experience that was all the more powerful for the sadness of it.

  34. Lana says

    March 10, 2011 at 9:06 am

    Amazing photos–and I'm so glad you weren't one of the "mean pusher photographers."
    We just moved north of Napoli to live for the year. We have lived overseas before and traveled extensively in Italy and wanted to live here. Thankfully, we'll be visiting Venice when it is more low-key.
    I look forward to chatting with you via the blogworld and perhaps even meeting you!

    I truly appreciate your aesthetic prowess with the lens. I am a writer/musician by trade and am just now really beginning to explore photography. Our time in Rome recently was a splendid opportunity to experiment with light/composition, etc.

    Hugs,
    Lana

  35. Kirstin says

    March 10, 2011 at 9:27 am

    Venice is a bit like that, isn't it? But still so very romantic and lovely. And you got to see it before it sinks….

  36. Evelyn S. says

    March 12, 2011 at 4:27 am

    I LOVE those masks! The colors are terrific, too!

  37. Irene says

    March 13, 2011 at 10:51 am

    Fascinating to see how different people experience Venice. I've visited Venice twice, once in February and once in September and to me it is a magical place.

    I think the main difference is that I stayed a week and slept in a B&B in Venice itself. Then you have the time to wander around, away from the San Marco Square. Walk for 10 minutes and you've lost all the tourist because they are only there for a day and don't have time to wander.
    You get to see squares where Italian people gather for dinner. Whole familys are sitting on a bench, enjoying the sun, talking about their day.
    Wander through the narrow streets, look at the laundry hanging above the canals.

    In the evening, when it is dark, is is so special. No sounds of cars, no sounds at all, the only sound is the sound of footsteps from someone who is walking in front of you. He is turning into a small alley and when you pass the alley and look, he is gone. Where did he go? Was he really there or did you imagine him?
    You hear laughter from the houses you pass, someone is watching television, you hear the sound of doing dishes. It's magic.

    There is just no place like it. It's a one of a kind experience, but you have to fully experience it. You cannot experience Venice in a day. You have to stay, walk around for hours, sit at the end of the vaporetta in the evening, see the lights go on in the houses along the canal. Stand on San Marco Square at 7 in the morning when people are in a hurry to get to their work, bring the children to school.

    There is a touristic Venice, but if you take the time and explore there is also a very wonderful authentic Venice to be discovered! I just love Venice!!!!!

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/irenevermeij/sets/72157603963018372/

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/irenevermeij/sets/919309/

  38. Angie Willis says

    March 15, 2011 at 11:54 am

    Oh! I see what you mean. I think you're right when you say there is much, much more to Venice than Carnevale. It's probably better to go out of season and paddle around in the water 🙂

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